India & its Trains

Prior to going to India we had researched the trains that we needed to take and how long they would take us. We knew that they had an allocated amount of tickets for tourists on each train and that the trains are often late. How prepared we were! NOT.

First impressions of Sleeper Class!

Our first experience of trying to book a ticket was in Mumbai, we went to their main train station (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus  formerly Victoria Terminus) and went to the booking window. There was pushing and shoving and this was just to get in the door. Each entrance has a metal detector that you have to walk through, the only issue is they are either not manned, not turned on or when they go off they just wave you through. There is no such thing as an information desk so we had to push and shove our way just to stay in our spot on the line. When we got to the window along with 30 other people we were told to go over there! Really that was it. Finally we discovered the tourist booking desk which was in another building on the first floor, at the end of the room, behind the pillars with a small little sign saying 'Tourist Only'. It closed 2 minutes before we found it.

We came back the next morning just as it was opening, climbing over the people asleep in the station, and got into the line with the other tourists. It turns out the lady at the counter was also going to Goa and wanted to book the same train as us, but it was full for the next 2 weeks... Aghhhhhh. What they didn't say was that the other trains going had space, when we asked they booked us on one a few hours later, so it was fine.

Chai, Bananas, Samosas...

While we were waiting for our turn we met this lovely couple living in Thailand (originally from Oz) and they told us loads about the trains:

1. You have to fill out a form in order to book a ticket - for this form you will need the train number (they will give you this) departure station, destination, if you would like a free upgrade (we always said yes but never got one), age, sex, nationality, passport number and what carriage & level you would like to book
2. Some stations have an enquiry desk with a different desk for booking your ticket
3. Each train has 10 tourist tickets, once these are gone you can go onto a waiting list, but there can be hundreds of people on this. If you are on the waiting list you have to pay (non-refundable even if you don't get on the train) and you find out 2 hours before the train goes.

The best part of Trains in India

We mainly booked sleeper class, this is not suitable for everyone but we found it to be good (cold at night, dirty as hell, but you got to meet Indians and fellow backpackers). This carriage is great if you are on a tight budget, if you have a bit more to spend go for Air con 2nd class. Some of the trains also offer seater carriages, if you can avoid this your bum will thank you. Imagine 33 hours sitting on a piece of wood!

All our fans were there

Later in the trip we found out from some more backpackers that cleartrip.com gives the option to book the tourist tickets online and you can make changes to your tickets as you go (not possible at the train station unless you want to pay twice).

The trains are not clean, if you get on in the dark check your seat before you sit down (trust me on this). Prepare yourself to see mice, cockroaches and a host of other 'things'. On the plus side they mainly offer 2 types of toilets 1. Western 2. Local (a hole in the floor). Traveling on the trains in India is all about experience!!

On some trains you have non-stop food service and its quite good. they have a team of cooks on board. The all go along the carriage shouting what they have. Chai, Chai, Chai.... If you are going to splurge go first class where all of your meals are included.

If you are taking a train remember the following:

• It most likely will be late (hours late)
• Find out if you are getting on at the start of the journey (remember this for the above)
• If you are traveling at night on sleeper class, book the top or bottom bunk and bring a blanket or sleeping bag (it gets cold).
• If a local talks to you, talk back but be warned you will be talking to them for the rest of the journey. So if they open with 'Do you believe in Jesus' you will be told all about the bible for the next 30 hours (this happened to us).

All in all it is a great way to travel and see the country, you can still sit at the open door as the train trundles along (be careful of this though, if you hit a cow you could fall off - again personal experience).